The Mediterranean island of Mallorca is now well-known as a sport climbing destination. Since the last Rockfax in 2006, it has also established itself as the home of Europe's best deep water soloing.
This latest edition of the Mallorca Rockfax brings together all the sport and DWS into one book. The sport section includes seven crags that haven't appeared in our previous books plus many new routes and sectors at the existing crags, and the DWS section is a fully comprehensive guide to all the DWS venues on the Island. This section includes expanded and updated Information over and above any previous guide relesed as well as a fantastic new look!
The style is in the new glorious full-colour format and features many new crag and action photos. The sport climbing is written by Alan James and Mark Glaister, and the deep water soloing section is written by Daimon Beail. The Mallorca Rockfax is the essential companion to your holiday visit to this wonderful island.
DWS AREASCova Del Diablo
Diablo is probably the world mecca for DWS. Holding some of the best solos on the island which were fully unearthed back in 2001, this pocketed wall towers to a challenging 18 meters above the sea offers a variety of high quality test pieces for all to enjoy. Some classics to experiment with are ‘Superwoman’ 7a+, ‘Afroman’ 7b and ‘Ejector Seat’ 7c. Generally visited by those climbing in the 7s and 8s but also offering additional lower-grade lines to enjoy.
Porto Cristo – Tower of Falcons
Just south of Porto Cristo lies what could be described as ‘the Mother of all caves’! This thing is a monster and almost every line within it is hard. The prize of this venue has to be Chris Sharma’s ‘La Hostia’ 8a+ that starts at the back of the cave and makes its way right out over the horizontal roof.
Porto Cristo Novo
A stunning cave, which is unfortunately a hot-spot for tourist boat trips in the holiday months. This is possibly one of Mallorca’s future realms for hard lines. Covered in stunning stalactites, difficult to access, with lines mostly in the upper numbers makes this an often-quiet venue. But those wishing to take the trip will be rewarded. The space walker ‘Up The Anty’ 6c+, takes in the wall to the left of the main cave and rises to a challenging height of 20m!
This is Mallorca’s soloing playground. Offering a unique selection of caves and overhanging walls with the added attraction of the fearsome Tarantino wall to increase your adrenaline level! A good surf spot when those storms come piling in and a touch of slacklining is normally found on the beach to keep you entertained on rest days. Height is reduced to a more manageable size compared to the likes of Diablo, which along its variety of quality lines makes this a very popular venue.
If bouldering is your game then you’re most probably heading to the lighthouse area. Short roof climbs in a sheltered cove with the option to extend if desired provide hours of fun. Further north a quieter spot called ‘The Dominion Wall’ offers a small number adventurous lines and a host of potential.
Anyone wanting a bit more height in their lines but enjoys climbing in the low to mid grades will find this venue appealing. The crag rises to around 16m in height with most lines climbing easy angled walls. A small number of overhanging routes are available to keep the daring happy. This is an excellent crag for a late afternoon / evening visit.
Cala Sa Nau
The immense powerhouse of the Hupolup Kempf cave houses a small number of cutting-edge lines at the high-end of the grade spectrum. Climb with care, as the falls are big! At the other end of the scale and luckily within close proximity is the virgin area. This is an excellent area for the first time soloer. Easy angled walls covered with a nice selection of low-grade lines. As an added bonus the area is also within walking distance of Cala Mitjanta for when you’re ready to step it up a level.
Best visited on the same day as Cala Sa Nau and accommodates a number of ‘island classics’! Gently overhanging and keeping lines to a manageable height, routes such as ‘Illuminations’ 6b will carry those more confident climbers into the more challenging grades. Harder lines such as the famous project ‘Animal Magnetism’ and one or two additions keep those number-thirsty crankers happy. The neighboring cave offers plenty of fun lines and the occasional tricky number.
Mallorca’s DWS equivalent to Stanage, with this being the largest venue on the island with close to one hundred lines in total. The golden juggy walls low down are in most cases followed by thinner and more technical sections above.
They’re all pretty much at an ideal height and the lines are situated on a variety of different angled walls.
Short and relatively easy lines located in the same vicinity as the sport climbing venue of Tijuana. Idea for those seeking additional activities in hot weather or wishing to give DWS a try.
Santanyi - Es Pontas
Still seen as a historic landmark in the climbing world, as hosting one of the hardest routes and without question the hardest deep water solo on earth. The arch offers little more than hard, extreme lines, the king of them all being Chris Sharma's 'Es Pontas' 9a+ / 9b.
An area of outstanding natural beauty perched on the western edge of the ‘Serra de Tramuntana’ mountain range. Quite a trek to get to but you’ll be rewarded with a stunning setting. Climbing can attract many onlookers, and occasional rounds of applause - it gets incredibly busy in the holiday seasons.
Something for your last day, a last minute climb before catching the plane home or something to pack in those long weekend visits. Porto Pi is a small but popular crag situated near Palma’s shipping docks. This is also home to the first Deep Water Solos on the island and possibly the world.
Book Launch 2011
|Daimon Beail, Author of the DWS section of the guide.|
|A Little Guidebook History|
|Flying through the pages.|